By Alain Neyman

       His informative Parisian restaurant site can be found at: 
                                 http://www.lesrestos.com

Lots of passionate things are happening in Paris right now; one can take note of the dynamism of the great Chefs in their affordable bistros:

CHIBERTA

Guy Savoy has taken over the CHIBERTA, close to the Champs Elysees, which was transformed into a chic bistro by the architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte.  It opens into three rooms, one with a tasting bar, another with a wall wine seller in a hallway and the third with big paintings of modern art.  One can come here to treat himself to a tourteau "granny-celeri", the supreme of volaille de Bresse au foie gras and figs fixed three ways with almond milk sorbet.  The excellent choice of wine is worthy of this three star Chef.

Menu to 60 €; à la carte from 42 to 80 €.  Open daily, except for Saturday noon and Sunday. 

LE CHIBERTA - 3, rue Arsène Houssaye  - 75008 Paris -Tel : 01 53 53 42 00

AUX LYONNAIS 

Between the Bourse and the Opera, Chef Alain Ducasse has updated the classic AUX LYONNAIS with its original 1890s decoration, to lighten the traditional gastronomy of the "bouchons" - those typical bistros from Lyon - into a real Parisian atmosphere where he delights us with le paleron de boeuf braisé, l'oeuf cocotte aux ecrevisses, le velouté de lentilles poule faisane, les légumes d'un lendemain de pot-au-feu or soufflé au Cointreau.  Very nice female service too.

Menu to 28 € ; à la carte from 35 to 60 €.  Open daily, except Saturday noon, Sunday and Monday. 

AUX LYONNAIS -  32, rue Saint-Marc -  75002 Paris - Tel : 01 42 96 65 04

L'ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON 

Six years after leaving his restaurant, Joel Robuchon has returned to open two new places, one right after the other: L'ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON on the left bank and LA TABLE DE JOEL ROBUCHON on the right bank.

In the spirit of the times of the zinc counter small "tapa-like" mouthfuls are featured at L'Atelier; more conventional servings are found at La Table, in a stylistic and comfortable room where the great Chef' makes us rediscover le tourteau à l'avocat, les cuisses de grenouilles, la tarte aux legumes crus et confits and, for dessert, le pastel délice.

L'ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON -  À la carte from 25 to 80 €.  Open everyday.

5, rue de Montalembert  - 75007 Paris  - Tel : 01 42 22 56 56

LA TABLE DE JOEL ROBUCHON -  À la carte from 70 to 110 €.  Open daily.

16, avenue Bugeaud  - 75016 PARIS - Tel : 01 56 28 16 16

LES AMBASSADEURS

Within the young generation of brilliant Chefs, that are currently asserting their talents, it is in the very prestigious Hotel de Crillon, on the Place de la Concorde, where a second star was given this year to Jean-Francois Piege,

the new Chef of the restaurant LES AMBASSADEURS, which is surrounded by a sumptuous decor of marble, mirrors and crystal chandeliers, over looking the place de la Concorde. The young Chef, a student of Alain Ducasse, blinds us with les noix de St Jacques, soles de petit bateau à l'ecorce de citron and for dessert, Jerome Chaucesse, the excellent pâtissier tempts us with his fine gateau croustillant chocolait banane et citron vert.

Menus from 70 to 130 € ; à la carte frin 120 to 220 €.

LES AMBASSADEURS à L'HOTEL DE CRILLON - 10, place de la Concorde   - 75008 Paris - Tel : 01 44 71 16 16

L'ASTRANCE 

And also, in a little restaurant that is both famous and discreet: they have worked for Alain Passart, the three star Chef of the Arpége before opening their own restaurant, L'ASTRANCE, close to the Seine, between the eiffel tower and Trocadero and with success immediately smiling upon Pascal Babot (kitchen) and to Christphe Rohat (dinning room).  The service is warm and inviting in the dining room with its classy comtempory style, lots of between tables room, beautiful and colorful modern dinning set.  Come and pamper yourself with le crabe en fine raviole d'avocat, le canard aux griottes and, for dessert, le pain perdu au lait battu avec sa glace au lait. The Chef just received a second Michelin Guide star in Mars, 2005.  Outstanding.

À la carte from 50 to 100 € ;  menu up to 150 €.  Open daily except Saturday and Sunday.

L'ASTRANCE - 4, rue Beethoven  - 75016 Paris - Tel : 01 40 50 84 40

In the very active category of the bistros, we find more and more gourmet addresses:

LES PAPILLES 

Take a wine bistro, entrust it to a super team, baptize it LES PAPILLES and you will acquire the most interesting addresse on the left bank.  Bertrand Blux, ex-Chef patissier at Taillevent proposes, with simplicity, some traditional dishes fit for the best tables.  All of Paris rushes to enjoy le velouté de tomates crème fouettée, le pavé de lieu jaune à l'écrassée de pommes de terre et ses condiments and, for dessert, the suprême d'agrumes en gelée de Campari ; but also the corbeille de cochonnaille or the terrines de la famille Camdeborde with superb wines to chose from.  Bistro style decorations, counter and wooden chairs.

Menu at 28,50 €, à la carte from 25 to 40 € ; service until 22h30.

LES PAPILLES - 30, rue Gay-Lussac - 75005 Paris - Tel : 01 43 25 20 79  -  Every day except Sunday.

CAFÉ DES DÉLICES

Gilles Choukroun, a young Chef with stars from Chartres , has come back to the capital to cherish and suprise with his unusual and savory culinary finds. The hip clientele have made the CAFÉ DES DÉLICES a rendezvous of gourmets that come for the pleasure of treating themselves to la crème brûlée aux cacahouèttes, la palette de porc with a sauce blanquette and some petits pois citronnés and finishing with Mon dessert "Café des Délices" aux agrumes. Contemporary Mediterranean style decorations.

Lunch Menu, 15 € ; à la carte from 26 to 40 €.  Open everyday except Saturday and Sunday

LE CAFE DES DELICES  -  87, rue d'Assas -  75006 Paris - Tel : 01 43 54 70 00

L'AVANT GOÛT 

Christophe Beaufront is a favorite of those gourmets that appreciate the quality of fresh products, the sincerity of a talented Chef and the good atmosphere of his Parisian bistro that is always full of happy customers.  Amongst his best dishes one does not resist his filets de maquereau tièdes, his pot-au-feu de cochon aux épices et legumes and to finish with parfait glacé aux marrons. The recently remodeled dinning room at L'AVANT GOÛT the walls of which house the artistic works of the Chef : deformed bottles, photographic enlargements.  An unavoidable rendezvous for bistro gastronomy.

Lunch menu at 14 € ; menu at 23 € and at 40 € ; à la carte from 26 € to 35 €.

L'AVANT-GOUT -  26, rue Bobillot  - 75013 Paris -  Tel : 01 53 80 24 00 - Every day except Saturday, Sunday and Monday.

CHEZ JEAN

A beautiful decor from the 1950's with a long counter made of lightwood, a superb porte-tambour, benches finished in purple velour, a monumental oak staircase and high ceilings, all create a unique atmosphere at CHEZ JEAN.  This renowned house taken over by Jean-Frederic Guidoni - an ex-Taillevent - where the young Chef Benoit Bordier prepares a subtle cuisine, all finesse and freshness, to the great pleasure of the guests that ask for another serving of la terrine de foie gras de canard mi-cuit, le cochon fermier aux carottes fondantes avec abricots et citrons confits and the mille-feuille à la vanille caramélisé.

Lunch menu at 34 € ; à la carte 38 € to 60 €. Open every day except Saturday and Sunday..

CHEZ JEAN - 8, rue Saint- Lazare  - 75009 Paris  - Tel : 01 48 78 62 73

LA RÈGALADE 

The bistro LA RÈGALADE has changed ownership ; the Chef Yves Camdeborde has sold to the young Bruno Doucet (ex-second of Jean Pierre Vigato) and, since it is still has good has always, the workers are loyal and the affluent guests keep coming, we do not see any change in this Parisian bistro. This is a sure thing with the foie gras du Gers poêlé au pain d'épices, le Parmentier de boudin noir and the sorbet aux fruits rouges avec sa gelée de Campari.  As for Yves Camborde, he is going to open a hotel-restaurant in Paris in the neighborhood of the Odeon, in April, to be continued...

LA REGALADE  -  49, avenue Jean Moulin  - 75014 Paris - Tel : 01 45 45 68 58

Menu-carte to 30 €. Open every day except Saturday noon, Sunday and Monday.

Yves Cambeborde - Le RELAIS SAINT GERMAIN et LE COMPTOIR DU RELAIS - 5 et 9 Carrefour de l'Odéon - 75006 Paris - Tel : 01 43 29 81 80

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